The Midlands March, What a difference.

After the icy winds and bleakness, we woke to a glorious blue sky. What a difference a day makes.

The Waterfront in the sun

It was a bit of an emotional tussle for me, sticking to our decision to avoid any crowded environment, not to be sucked into the retail complex, just for a browse of course, but the thought of our days cruise was more tempting and off we set.

Just around the corner

The canal was still passing through some scruffy backwaters,

If we ever need a flagpole, We’ll know where to find one.


Until we came to the junction and lock at Blowers Green

Blowers Green lock

This marks the division from the Dudley 1 and Dudley 2 canals. And the start of some interesting canal art, combining history and pride in the locality .

The pump house at Blowers Green with someone helpfully winding the paddle


If we had continued up the flight we would have had to go through the Dudley 1 tunnel, but it wasn’t clear if we would be able to transit unescorted at this time of year. It is a narrow tunnel with poor ventilation and requires a booked passage. Admittedly we didn’t research the possibilities as there is a clear and easy alternative going via the Netherton tunnel on the Dudley 2 canal. So we turned right.

Goodbye Dudley 1, we’re turning right onto Dudley 2

What a surprise. We were now in the heart of the Black Country and had expected more backwaters and graffiti, however we found ourselves cruising through some peaceful quiet countryside, the Saltwell nature reserve, and past Netherton reservoir.

Saltwell nature reserve

Aside from our current knowledge about coal usage, Its hard to imagine just how all pervasive and destructive the mining industry was on the landscape. We assume all this green space are areas of reclaimed land from the intense mining activity that prompted the region to be known as Black Country.

No wonder there were so canals around here, we passed by a disused shortcut that had linked the Dudley 1 and 2

These iron bridges are unique to this area

Our journey continued under the aptly named high bridge.

The High Bridge


Where the road had previously passed over a tunnel, a narrow hard tunnel for the boaters and leggers, hence it’s uncovering.

Brewing tunnel

We passed through more wharfs and boat yards, and signs commemorating the local industrial heritage. Until we arrived at the southern portal of the Netherton Tunnel at the Bumblehole, Windmill End. Lots of mooring, walking and peace. We think we shall stay here a while and explore.

The Midlands March, up the Merry Hill

As we feared the canal was frozen over when we woke, but when I gingerly leaned out the side hatch and poked it, it was obvious, we’d be skating on thin ice, which was thawing rapidly

Thin ice

So when we saw the door of opportunity floating towards us we set off. Turning immediately right onto the Stourbridge Extension canal.

The door of opportunity

Past Delph wharf, which, as the notice says, offered hard standing for boats of all sizes

Really?

Under Black Delph bridge, which marks the start (or end) of the Dudley No 1 canal, part of the Birmingham Canal Navigation and the start (or end) of the Delph flight of 8 locks. As luck would have it, as I set the first lock, we struck gold, not one but 3 CRT gems. Two of whom were volockies, who helped us up the flight in under an hour.

That’s what we like to see, helpers at locks


And we were mightily glad we made good speed because as we emerged from lock 8 (or was it lock 1) there were snow flurries in the air

Leaving the top lock

And 5 minutes later, we were cruising past Merry Hill, the huge retail complex, but although there was lots of mooring, it was very exposed.

Merry Hill

So we rounded the corner to moor at the Waterfront Basin, by the time we finished tying up it was almost blizzard like.

Think we stopped just in time.

We hadn’t intended to go further, so we battoned down the hatches and snuggled up to keep warm, we could have ventured over the bridge to enjoy the delights of Wetherspoons and the shops.

I imagine it is a lot more inviting in the sun


But the thought of catching pneumonia appealed even less than catching that other nasty bug doing the rounds. It did look nice at night though.

Night time sparkle

We travelled 4 miles and did 8 locks

The Midlands March, 16 locks

There wasn’t a lot, but we definitely saw a dusting of snow on the towpath this morning.

Yes that’s snow on the towpath


And with a flight of 16 locks to work through I was a bit worried about slipping on ice. But the sun was shining as we entered the first lock on the stourbridge flight at 10am

Wordsley junction, start of the flight


We passed some lovely old buildings, that probably thrived on canal trade


I wanted to stop at the Red House glass works Museum,

The red house glass cone

but word was starting to filter down that there was a problem ahead….. “The canals been dredged” “the canals empty” “there’s a swan stuck in the mud” ….. I think the walkers thought we were mad to keep going on up the flight, but what else where we to do until we’d seen the problem for ourselves.

Mmm Firecrest won’t be going through that quagmire

And sure enough we got to Swan Bridge winding hole to find it impassible. Did we call CRT or walk up and check the paddles first? We opted to check the paddles hadn’t been left open and then draw some water down to refill the pound. There didn’t seem to be much amiss in the section above, and despite it seeming a large area, the levels had risen sufficiently in just over half an hour to be navigable.

That’s more like it

And typically just as we were breathing a huge sigh of relief a well armed CRT man turned up with his rake. I didn’t pick up if he’d been told about the problem by someone else, but he agreed we had done the right thing. And he also identified the cause of the problem. Something was stopping the ground paddle being fully wound down. And he knew that the last boat on the flight before us was the day before, so there had had been plenty of time to drain the pond. He set too with his rake and after quite some effort, he hauled a child’s scooter and some plastic out thus allowing the paddle to close properly.

I hope that wasn’t a Christmas

We all surmised that the scooter looked new, so we think it must have fallen in rather than been discarded thrown in. The current then sucked it into the paddle channel. So not a deliberate act of vandalism, just a consequence of an unfortunate accident. Sadly though, we are now in an urban area, where there are enough morons who think it acceptable to use the canal as a dumping ground or for sport throwing in shopping trolleys and traffic cones. And for some make their “artistic” presence known.

Graffiti country

Thankfully those people are in the minority and plenty more enjoy the benefits of the canal. It’s not always rubbish that gets pulled out as we saw this enormous Pike being landed

What a whopper

We made it through the top lock 4 hours after we set off. And with CRTs permission we moored on the bollards.

Mooring after the top lock

With a clear sky and a crescent moon it’s quite beautiful

Magical

Less than 2 miles and 16+ locks

The Midlands March, a new year and a new adventure.

And so with the new year’s resolution not to neglect our blog still ringing in my ear, we are setting off on a new adventure. We have a plan, a rough route and an excitement for what lies ahead. Yes we know there might be one or two spanners thrown into our works but here goes.
We plan to cruise across the Midlands, through Warwickshire and Oxfordshire. It’s 110 miles to Oxford where we plan join the mighty river Thames for the warmer months.

The map on the right is our planned route, the Google map on the left just gives a rough geographic idea

But in typical boaters fashion our plans had to change from day 1. We had arranged to meet friends in Kinver, but on chatting to another boater we realised our chosen route through the Dudley tunnel was restricted access. And because we had seen a potential restriction on our alternative route we cancelled that reunion in order to get to beyond the stoppage. We also knew the weather was about to turn and proper winter was about to return.
Thankfully the blue skies were promising. And we turned easily onto the Stourbridge canal, the start of this adventure.

Stoughton junction

The Stourbridge canal was completed in 1779, it has a few branches but over its 6 miles it effectively joins the Dudley canal with the Staffs and Worcester canal, and was used for transporting coal, ironstone and lime. It cost around £38, 000 to build and was a profitable venture for its investors, so much so that the company was able to support the mines and other local industries. The railways and road networks gradually took the trade and the canals commercial traffic petered our in the 1930s.
I knew that it wouldn’t be long before we would be cruising in an urban landscape so we moored up just before Wordsley junction for our last look at the countryside.

Between middle bridge and Wordsley junction


Today’s journey about 2 miles and 4 locks

Farewell 2021, part five. Tis the season to be Jolly

December decisions. We do love living on a boat, but sometimes it’s management is hard work. We wanted to travel south, but events were conspiring around us so we set off north on the Staffs and Worcester. December became an exercise in time management, getting us from A to B on the right day. Thankfully non of our days were long cruises and although we were conscious of various deadlines we still found a lot to enjoy, even misty mornings have a certain beauty.

Coven Heath

Our first stay was in Penkridge with a convenient train station so I took the opportunity to visit Mum in the Lakes. Whist Eric got on with some work…..

I love being back in the Lakes

And when I got back we set off in the snow to reach Stafford,

Snowy Penkridge


Thankfully the snow didn’t last too long, and the canal didn’t freeze, although it was bitterly cold. The sun shone and we got our rainbow as we slipped and skidded our way up to the vaccination centre for our boosters

Radford Bank, Stafford


Our next stop was to reach Great Haywood Marina on the Trent and Mersey. Because that was the only marina we could find that had a week’s temporary mooring for Firecrest whilst we both returned home.

Great Haywood Marina

But en route we had a windy night on the Tixall wides.

Tixall Wides

It was lovely to be home for “First Christmas”, knowing if we had left it another week or two, there was a possibility we wouldn’t have been allowed to get together, and this was the first time Tim and Heather had been together since January 2020.

The pizza is a jigsaw, not tea for all of us


Once we were back on board Firecrest, we set about retracing our steps back onto the Staffs and Worcester, a brief stop in Stafford for the very convenient Aldi, and a peaceful plot in Penkridge, where we got our flu vaccine. Ironically our quiet mooring in Penkridge runs parallel to the M6, it would be noisy in summer with windows open but we had battoned down the hatches so not disturbed.

That’s the M6 motorway across the field

We got to be good Samaritan’s the week before Christmas when we were flagged down by another boater, they had sprung a hull leak and their overworked bilge pump had drained the batteries. They were in serious risk of sinking cause they were already paddling in water. Thankfully Eric had a spare pump and enough battery power, to stop it getting any worse whilst they waited for professional help to arrive. The boat was new to them and even though they’d had it out of the water for a survey, the problem hadn’t shown up. They hadn’t heard the boaters acronym “Bring On Another Thousand”
Our maintenance was relatively painless this time, as Eric did the generator service and oil change.

Sitting down on the job…

I consider it to be a fair exchange of labour, cause I happily cooked a big roast duck for our Christmas dinner, from Russell’s, the first class butchers… not the canal

A happy Christmas on board Firecrest

We continued cruising south to see out the year, and had and amazing day with our friends Helen and James on new years eve.

Setting James to work doing the locks

What a finale, we’re back on track, heading south and looking forward to an exciting adventure in 2022

Farewell 2021, part four, the final furlong.

We kept our colour well into November.

The time had come to study the planned winter closures list and, whilst also keeping an eye on any unwelcome restrictions that might hamper our cruising plans, decide where we wanted to be for Christmas. At the end of October we were all still optimistically planning our parties and big family gatherings. We knew we had to be off the Llangollen by 8th November but it was noticeable how much quieter the canal was becoming with fewer and fewer hire boats so we took our time wandering around some of the gorgeous villages.

The parish churchyard at Marbury


Nantwich is only a short cruise off the Llangollen. And the Shropshire Union towers over the town on an embankment, via an aqueduct, making it a popular mooring spot.

Nantwich aqueduct over the Weaver


We could only get onto the 48 hour, and I regret not spending longer here because its a fascinating town with a lot of history. Although a lot of the black and white “tudor” buildings are relative victorian youngsters, after many originals were destroyed by fire.

Just a little bit of Nantwich

We continued down the Shroppie at pace, stopping at some lovely places on our way, Audlem Mill, on the wharf is now a museum and craft shop,

I could have spent all day in Audlem mill

We gave thanks for some lovely rainbows, after some torrential rains

Rainbow at Audlem

We ploughed through some pretty hairy overflows on the locks

Overflows like this seemed to be the norm along this stretch

We wondered at the amount of boats that must have used this canal over the years, looking at the depth of wear on the metal bridge protectors

We marvelled at the feats of engineering, building bridges like this which contained the telegraph pole

But although there were some lovely moorings


We found this part of our journey frustrating, had the canal been built for speed, with long straight cuttings? I guess so, although we were mightily glad we weren’t cruising at the height of summer having to negotiate narrow stretches with on coming boats.

Along the straight and narrow

We had also fallen victim to some poor planning, albeit partly our own fault, needing to pick up fuel meant we hadn’t stopped to enjoy the nice places for longer. We were in the midst of the fuel supply crisis, and had declined paying £1:10 per litre, in favour of getting to Wheaton Aston who were still only asking 79p, saving ourselves over £100. And although autumnal leaves are beautiful in the sunshine, they are anything but once they are in the canal. Leaf soup made progress hard going.

Leaf soup


But we made it to the end of the Shroppie

Farewell 2021, part three, the Autumnal Amble

From green leaves to gold.

From green to gold

Having nudged well into September whilst we were in Chester, and having done the zoo, and Ellesmere port, it was time to get the passports out and cross the borders. Well I should say border but it’s in competition with some of the canals for its wiggliness, and we crossed it several times, half the time we didn’t know if we were drinking in a Welsh or English pub.

Willymoor Lock Tavern, Shropshire

So it was back down the Shroppie and onto the Llangollen. We ambled along, stopping to explore the little market towns of Whitchurch and Ellesmere, but relishing the lovely rural views.

England on the left, Wales on the right, or was it the other way around

But of course we were heading, along with every hire boat in the country, to aqueduct territory, with Chirk

Chirk Aqueduct


And the Pontycysllte

The stream in the sky crossing

What an experience.

Crossing the Pontycysllte Aqueduct

Of course having got to Llangollen, we also continued on foot to the Horseshoe falls where the mighty River Dee is channelled into the start of the canal, so water can be moved to quench the thirst of the people in the Midlands


I guess with the scenery being so spectacular, it’s understandable why it’s such a popular canal, but we happily made a detour onto the Monty for a bit more personal space,

Montgomery canal

Although it didn’t stop us taking advantage of the picnic tables to meet up with boating friends and enjoy a BBQ together.

Lockgate Bridge picnic ground

This has certainly been a cruise well enjoy looking back on

Farewell 2021, part two, the summer months

Summer saw us cruising purposefully along the Trent and Mersey,
We said goodbye to April under the cherrytrees at Shardlow

Shardlow

And moved swiftly through May as the leaves turned green

We took the opportunity meeting friends from Mercia, at Fradley Junction, at Burton and Rugeley, before we arrived in Stone to meet with Mike Carter, who was going to do our Boat Safety certificate inspection. Thankfully we passed.

Visiting Friends always welcome


With just one further obligation to fulfil by the end of May, we arrived in Stoke to have our second vaccination. We were lucky enough to moor right opposite the Middleport pottery, where we caught it looking it’s absolute best with our favourite photographic dark combo, storm cloud and bright sunlight

Middleport pottery

In our four years of cruising we still get excited seeing our industrial heritage along the canals. But I will save you from the 100’s of photos I took of the bluebells as we took ourselves onto the Caldon canal for a mini break at beginning of June, they really are a May favourite.

Bluebells on the Caldon canal

The Caldon canal is a true gem, often overlooked by some, probably cause it’s narrow, twisty and home to the notorious Froghall tunnel, which has the lowest possible headroom on the system. Only the brave or foolhardy attempt to traverse it. I’m not sure which camp we are in but we won our silver propeller for reaching the Froghall basin.

Phew we made it through without getting stuck

June was a lovely month, we were healthy and happy being able to explore again. We returned to the Trent and Mersey, slipped through the Harecastle tunnel and turned right onto the Macclesfield. Last time we had been this way we were leaving Braidbar in our brand new boat in June 2017. We had been ploughing south in order to meet up with friends, (in the days before we realised you can’t rely upon a cruising plan for more than a day at a time, if that) we were determined to enjoy the Macclesfield more this time. Tim joined us for a few days and encouraged us to leave the Towpath and climb Mow Cop

On top of Mow Cop


It was lovely to see James and Donna at Braidbar. What with one thing and another, June and July became a leisurely and relaxed summer, I was welcomed back to the fabulous Wiseheart & Wild craft studio and with Tim living close enough to cycle, we filled our days with the pleasure of friendship. We meandered up and down the Macclesfield and Peak Forest canal back to Bugsworth basin

Bugsworth basin, near Whaley Bridge

Eric did some more work on the arials and solar panels

Caution, man at work

Our initial plans for the year had been to pick up our thwarted 2020 goal, to visit Chester. We had planned a convoluted route through Manchester, onto the Bridgewater, back down the T&M onto the Middlewich branch before heading north up the Shroppie….but we were thwarted yet again by a broken lock in Manchester that required a complex repair.

Bollington

August saw us returning down the Macclesfield, and turning right and going north up the T&M before we reached the Middlewich branch, “a new to us” canal. The weather wasn’t brilliant, but it was certainly dramatic.

And we finally made it to Chester by the end of August

The walls of chester

And of course the zoo was a highlight

Farewell 2021, part one

It might have been a bit stop start year, but yes there were some memorable moments to look back and smile about.
We weren’t going anywhere in January whether we liked it or not, the rain turned to snow and the water turned to ice. But the world lost its gloom and doom for a week as everything sparkled for us in Market Harborough. The canal looked magical and our spirits were lifted.

The icing on the cake at Market Harborough

We’d been lucky enough to get into one of the moorings with a water point so we snuggled down to make the most of another 3 months of official lockdown, the Co-op was within walking distance and we cruised once a month up to Debdale to pick up fuel and I soon learnt where to find the sweetest flowers.

Snowdrops in Great Bowden’s parish churchyard

February we were beginning to get bored, we’d had more snow and ice but the towpaths were muddy so walking wasn’t much fun. Despite it being a lovely place, we were ready to say goodbye to Market Harborough.

Officially we still were only permitted to cruise for essential services. We’d both been called for our 1st vaccination, but with no accessible centres or dates nearby, what better excuse did we need to plan our move.
We would march in March, as we headed north up the Grand Union canal. Fueled up with bacon butties

Essential cruising gear

and a fond farewell from our MH friends

Baa bye

off we set into the sunset at Kilby Bridge where we caught the bus into Leicester to be jabbed.

Kilby Bridge

CRT lifted our cruising restrictions in April and it felt like the some degree of normality was returning Eric finally got around to wiring in the first of our solar panels – when he wasn’t chatting to our fellow boaters.

Men at work

But we had to remember it was April and whilst we might be basking in sunshine one day,


On some mornings, we were still waking up to sharp frosts

Early morning at Barrow-upon-Soar

We continued up the river Soar, through Loughborough, briefly up onto the River Trent before turning left onto the Trent and Mersey Canal as spring merged into summer

Promises of good things to come

Catching up still on the Llangollen

I’m many weeks behind sharing our autumnal adventures, so to catch up on our journey having done the “half full monty” we continued floating downstream along the Llangollen. We enjoyed a few days in Ellesmere,

Ellesmere basin


where the yarn bombers had adorned a letterbox to commemorate armistice day

Lest we forget

We do love a bit of street art, but sometimes canal artists know how to sum up the mood of the nation just as well

Bloody Corona indeed

Though sometimes you just can’t beat nature

A moment of joy

Our plan was to be off the Llangollen before the planned winter closures started on the 8th November, but we still had time to walk around Whitchurch. It has some lovely “old” timber framed buildings Not all of them quite as old as they seem being built in the 1930’s.

All walkers need a Walker’s pie and pastry


And then onto Marbury, which does have a genuine old church which claims to be home to the oldest pulpit in Cheshire, 1456

We still haven’t quite relaxed into properly exploring the places we visit, but churches usually feel a safe space to wander around midweek,

Even the grave yard was lovely to wander through

and we are very grateful to the communities who have left their doors unlocked for the likes of us.

But we’re not out of the woods yet with more Covid bridges to cross and canal bridges to float under.