Staying in Stratford

We downed a hearty breakfast to fuel us down the last 16 locks towards Stratford.

A taste of what’s to come


Fortunately they are all single locks and being a popular destination we met enough boats coming up as going down, some very helpful volockies, and some very pretty lock landings adopted by a local couple.

I think this is the best lockside garden we’ve seen


I have to confess we’re never sure how we’re going to feel arriving in such a busy tourist destination.


Generally we want to run a mile back to the tranquility of the countryside, but occassionally, we arrive just get a sense of, yes, let’s treat this as a holiday and be tourists, and enjoy the atmosphere. I think a lot depends on where we actually get a mooring.

Bancroft Gardens

The Stratford canal terminates at Bancroft Basin. The basin is in one of two remaining wharfs. The other was filled in in the 1930s and became Bancroft Gardens. It’s a hub of entertainment for all the visitors with buskers, icecream vendors, and peddlers all willing to lighten your purse.


In the mid 1800s however, I doubt it was quite so pretty. The area was heaving with commercial activity, 50 000 tonnes of coal passed through Statford each year. There were also  glass and lead wharfs, a cooperage, a cider press, a skin yard and a timber yard all served by a tram way. Nowadays, Warwickshire can expect well over 6 million tourists per year and I think half of them come to take a ride on the trip boats that now operate from the basin.


Of course Statfords most famous face is the hurdy gurdy playing busker in the town centre.

He confessed to me that his wife was just glad to have him out of the house


closely followed by William Shakespeare.


And there are monuments all over the place


The fabulous Royal Shakespeare Company Theatre dominates the gardens and river. We chose to go to one of the fringe theatres, even closer to Firecrest than the RSC. The Attic, housed in the old wood yard at the end of the basin, we saw Noel Coward’s Private Lives, and thoroughly recommend this little theatre company to anyone passing through Stratford.

Home to the RSC


Mooring is restricted to 48 hours in the basin, and whilst we got one of the prime linear spots, most of the mooring is on pontoons, which aren’t quite long enough to make for the easiest of mooring venues. Although this is terminus for the Stratford canal, there is a lock which opens out onto the River Avon.


We bought our ANT licence, (£70 for 2 weeks) and spent another night on the River Avon

Leaving the lock and entering the River Avon


With everything in such easy walking distance we could easily have stayed another few nights in Stratford. Good fish and chips from the Kingfisher on Ely Street, worth the extra 10 minutes walk.

Makes a change from Canada Geese, but just as noisy

A Week in London, part 4, One more day

We really couldn’t believe our luck at having discovered these bookable moorings in London. We really made the most of our base to explore. The city is diverse as old and modern intermingle, Eric spent several years commuting into London for work and took great delight in walking around familiar sights, although his 60’s tower block has long since been replaced.

Old and modern


Most of the week we basked in sunshine but the day it rained, oh boy did it rain,

but it didn’t last and I took the opportunity to visit one of England’s well known trendy wool shops, Loop, only 10 minutes walk from Firecrest. And yes as far as yarn shops go, Loop is to knitters like me, yarn candy, wool heaven, fibre porn, you name it, it was divine. However, whether its because of its location, its customers, its media awareness, it came with a warning, do not cross the thresh hold without a healthy bank balance, cause it might not be so healthy when you leave. (Don’t worry Eric, I’d left the credit card at home)

Loop, islington

But I’d been shocked at the price of a skein of yarn in London, Eric was shocked at the price of a pint in London. But I just couldn’t help be drawn into those beautiful old London Pubs, full of etched glass. The Camden Head is close to the mooring and if you get your timing right, there’s free comedy shows most nights.

The Camden Head

We had left it too late to stay for the set the day we went in, because we had treated ourselves to tickets for a west end show. We were going to see Les Miserables, at the Sondheim. Now that was worth every penny. Everything about the theatre, production, the atmosphere was amazing. And if time had permitted we’d have gone again the following night. But we had reached the end of our week and with the memorable songs coursing through our souls we prepared to move on.

Les not so miserable


And just one more night

A week in London part 1 eco mooring

When we realised we could book a week’s mooring in central London we leapt at the chance. For a visitor to the capital, the horror stories about there being nowhere to moor is a daunting prospect. And to a certain extent, once we had passed under the North circular (A406, roughly east of Wembley) yes, mooring options became increasingly sporadic, but we could still have doubled up if necessary. But along the Regent’s Canal there is a joint initiative between DEFRA, Islington council and CRT to help reduce boater’s emissions, with a system of bookable Eco Moorings. Although its causing a lot of controversy amongst boaters, many London based boats are simply not able to comply with the regulations without upgrading their set up, it suited us perfectly. Its worth reading this article from the CRT website if you’re interested. Islington Eco moorings


It’s still all a bit hit and miss and open to abuse, And despite being assured we wouldn’t be double moored, when we arrived the only space available was a double mooring. Not that that was a problem, we were warmly welcomed and assisted to moor up, it was a bit tricky getting on and off firecrest over a slightly longer boat than ourselves, and two days after we had to do a reshuffle as our partners boat needed to move. But the advantage of having an electric hook up, (which we paid for through CRTs Meter Mac online system) was well worth it.

Boat shuffling to accomodate doubled up mooring

We were surprised at just how quiet this short section of mooring is, between Islington tunnel and City Road Lock. It’s surrounded by residential properties, (who have also had to adapt to new emissions initiatives with restricted road access)

Looking up to the Noel Road properties


And there didn’t seem to be a lot of boat traffic, unless you counted the weekend trip boats hosting parties

Thats a good way to celebrate


Yet all within a few minutes of the Northern line and Angel tube station, and a lively high street and trendy shopping centre

Angel shopping centre

On our first evening, we had arranged to meet up with family to go and see a west end show. So started off with a meal in China town

No point in denying it, we were in full blown tourist mode


Amanda’s neighbour was playing young Bob, in the musical Get Up, Stand up, at the Lyric theatre, and as we’d met them earlier in the year it seemed an obvious show to go and see.

Great music Bob,

A good start to our week