Making progress means working through locks again, so out came the tools of my trade as we worked our way into and out of Wigan. The past 3 or 4 months have been a nightmare for anyone trying to cruise through this junction. With restrictions due to water levels and the Wigan flight being closed for several weeks for both a sinkhole and a blown cill. But the end was in sight and passages were up and running again. But after months without water, we got caught in a monsoon and had to halt our progress. We pulled in at the first available mooring outside Wigan Athletic FC. A bit of a mistake, lots of families out walking, one who thought it was acceptable to encourage their kids to climb on to the roof of our boat for a photo opportunity. I wish they’d fallen in when I stuck my head out to yell at them, and why is it that we only think of witty and wise comments after the event, like for instance, “how would you like it if we climbed on the roof of your car, and potentially scratch the paint or break the windscreen wipers” ah well perhaps there won’t be a next time.
we didn’t waste any time the next day moving on through Wigan, past the pier
there are some fabulous old mill buildings in Wigan,
and onto the flashes, we moored up at Scotsmans Flash
the Scotsmans Flash, a wildlife parkland created after the mining industry collapsed
it was close enough for me catch a train to spend the day with my family celebrating Aunties birthday
Quite a family gathering
And with Mum and Mike having driven down from the Lakes, I took the opportunity to go back with then for a few days amongst the mountains
The Old Man of Coniston
We even found a pretty waterfall, not on quite the grand scale of the ones I saw in Iceland but never or less, it made me smile.
Just as beautiful, just not quite so awesome as the Iceland waterfalls
Almost as much as seeing this reserved parking space
Sadly they had packed up for the day just as we arrived
And as always lots of laughter around
And I was soon back on the flashes ready to continue our journey
It’s all go on board the little ship Firecrest, as we cruised on to Burscough. I was just putting the kettle on after we’d moored up, when I saw our first visitor arriving
who’s watching who
Turns out this fella, who lives locally, has a liking for passing narrowboats,
Ey’up what’s for tea.
he’s not sharing my curry
Burscough has some interesting wildlife,
but what’s so odd about that…..
But not all is what it seems, this duck had made her nest in Tesco carpark, right in centre of town.
wonder if they’ve got a parking ticket
Burscough is great place to be, cause its got excellent public transport, and i was able to hop on a train to Ormskirk to see Martina and the Ormskirk spinning group. We’re taking every opportunity to spin right now because as every good spinner knows, July is the TdF month, no not Tour de France, but Tour de Fleece, an epic 23 day Spinathon, where we tune in the TV coverage of that little european bike ride, and we take part in daily challenges, endurance spinning, speed spinning, fine spinning or challenging spinning, and if we’re not part of a local spinning community, encouraged on social media by spinners all around the world
Spinners of the world unite
I managed to spin 500g of fibre and made approximately 1.5km of yarn.
it’ll be hand-knits for Christmas again folks
I missed a trick and should have entered my spinning into one of the creative categories at the Parbold Village show, our friends Paul and Sharon who are local boaters suggested we all go together, and as village shows go, it was a good one, the funniest competition was for the ugliest house plant.
that would be a lovely photo of Paul and Sharon, if it weren’t for that monstrosity behind them
Although there were some others that made us smile as well
I think I’d fit in quite well in Parbold
After all that excitement, we pushed on for some rural tranquility, there’s a nice stretch just beyond Appley Bridge
Where the sunsets are usually pretty good
And the field next to the towpath is full of blue linseed.
Fortunately not all good things must come to an end and it was lovely to see my little boat and Eric again. Eric had cruised out of Liverpool the day after Amanda and I set off on our epic Iceland adventure, so once we picked up the car, she dropped me off back at our little boat.
I think my hand looks like it’s missing a cocktail glass
Eric had had a good 10 days, but was complaining bitterly about how hot it had been so he hadn’t been able to complete any of the chores he had planned to do…..but he had gone to town preparing some fine dining for me, I decided to dress for dinner
no space for a full length glamour shot
Just so I could show off my sparkley toes
And I was treated to a magnificent salad served with a cocktail and a chocolate dessert for afters
I think he had missed me but is in no doubt I’d like to go again. That said we set off to cruise into Lancashire instead. The canal is full of a yellow waterlily -which is all well and good until you meet a boat coming the other way.
Occassionally there are more ornate lilie
They might look, beautiful they they have stems like rubber under the water that wrap around your prop if you’re not careful. But who knows what’s going on underneath, we got to one of favourite mooring spots next to the Halsall Navvie.
We love this guy and all he represents, building the canals back in the late 1700s was hard hard work, and we shall always be grateful to them and the engineers ingenuity for devising our network.
a delivery of flowers from my mum and Mike wishing us a memorable holiday
What a fantastic holiday, Iceland really is a place I’d like to go back to, more things to see and do and more things to see and do again, But Amanda and I had 2 whole days of cruising left to enjoy, and yes I’d quite happily become a continual cruiser on a bigger ship than Firecrest. But what’s to stop me having crispy bacon, pancakes and maple syrup for breakfast every day on Firecrest?
Just because we could…and I didn’t have to make it myself
And I’m not sure I would really want a dining room quite this big
And I discovered the pleasure in having a pedicure, we’ve been back in England 3 weeks now and my toes are still sparkley
We tried to persuade the sommelier to come home with us to keep the fizz flowing
We were supposed to be heading for a game of table tennis but when someone stops you with a glass of fizz you don’t say no
Infact Julius our lovely cocktail waiter told us he could cook and clean and quite fancied coming home with us
Amanda was very tempted to smuggle him out
I’m not sure I smile so much when it rains so much in an English summer
Standing over the great divide, between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates
And it was very disappointing when our whale watching trip got cancelled at the last minute
So disappointing, all dressed up and nowhere to go
But we really did get to see some magnificent sights in Iceland.
Gullfoss
The rain didn’t dampen our spirits
Gullfoss
Dressing for dinner was fun
And cocktail of the day was a must, although we tried to hold off until 5pm when we had a plate of canapés delivered to our cabin
And nothing beats live music
Sean the vocalist,
It’s been hard to pick out the best bits, I think perhaps Goðafoss was my favourite waterfall
my favourite waterfall Gullfoss
The lupins were my favourite flower on the island
lovely Alaska lupins, brought in to help reduce the soil erosion
The sunsets were memorable
This was the not quite midnight sun
And the company was the best,
I wish that Amanda had been able to share this with David as they’d planned back in 2022, but his memory travelled with us and this holiday was dedicated to him, his love of life and his love for Amanda. Thankyou Amanda for letting me share it with you.
There are many “must do” sights in Iceland and when we were planning our trip, visiting the golden circle, the 140 mile spectacular route was one we had to see, and didn’t we just pick the day with the weather.
It’s out there somewhere
But nothing was going stop Amanda and I making the most of every single minute, including shrieks of amazement when our tour bus was leaving the industrial harbour and I saw a Firecrest painted on the side of unit.
The Firecrest might be the smallest bird in England, but that’s definitely the biggest bird I’ve seen in Iceland
Luckily the perceived wisdom about the weather in Iceland is to “hang about 10 minutes and it will have changed completely”. So as our tour bus arrived at one of the magnificent waterfalls, the mist parted to reveal Gullfoss, “the golden waterfall” Of course being part of the must do tour of Iceland meant we weren’t the only ones enjoying the view.
Gullfoss
Gullfoss could be counted as two significant waterfalls, each worthy of a million photos
Back in the early 20th century an enterprising English man wanted to buy the waterfall from its owner, Tomas Tomasson, a sheep farmer. The plan was to use it to generate hydro-electricity. However Tomas refused to sell “his friend” but did agree to lease the land. This led to years of legal battles, because there was a loophole that Tomas hadn’t forseen. His daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir fought hard and sacrificed much, she frequently walked the 62 miles into Reykjavik to After much expense and uphill struggle, to the point where she threatened to throw herself into the falls if construction started, Howell pulled out and in 1929 Gullfoss returned to the custodianship of the Icelandic people. Sigríður is recognized as Iceland’s first environmentalist
Sigríður Tómasdóttir
I wonder if I have a bit of Iceland in my heritage, wearing plaits.
But there’s no way I’m going to throw myself down there no matter how special it is.
We could have stayed and marvelled all day at Gullfoss, but our excussion was ready to move on. We didn’t have time to visit the Langjökull Glacier,
Langjökull Glacier
it was only after a closer look that we realised it was ice not cloud
We fancied something a bit warmer so it was off to visit geysers
Our geyser is Stokkur, and you can see the comparison to other globally famous geysers
With dire warnings not to go into the water as it was coming out of the ground between 80 and 100°C we all dutifully stood around the discreet barrier
Wait for it……
And were rewarded with several very dramatic expulsions of water and steam as Stokkur revealed its glory
Wow, that was impressive
It’s little brother, appropriately named Little geyser was spluttering mud most of the time
Again as we have seen throughout our visit, despite it being height of tourist season and the number of visitors, we never really felt the crowds spoilt our own enjoyment.
No throwing coins in the pool please,
We had one final location to visit on our golden circle tour. Þingvellir, (thingvellir)This area is strangely unique as it forms both part of Iceland’s political heritage, and a significant geological feature. The newly arrived settlers gathered together at this site to decide how to live as a community. The Alþingi, general assembly was founded in 930 and continued meet until 1798, it is still revered as a national shrine.
the Assembly Plain
However impressive the sense of pride the Icelanders have of their country, we were fascinated by the fact that these rock formations were actually part of the earth’s tectonic plates. On one side we were able to reach out and touch the Americas,
Yes it was raining again, but who could resist touching America
whereas on the other we were in no-man’s land for the eurasion plates were now some 4km away and shifting by 2.5cm a year.
Thankfully thats only 0.07mm per day and we didn’t think the ground was going to swallow us up before we got home.
I’m glad we couldn’t see what we were walking over
We made it safely back to our ship in time for an early evening departure from Iceland. As we said our farewells we cruised past the Imagine Peace Tower, the right hand small white structure on Viðey Island. It is a memorial and symbol of international peace, erected by Yoko Ono in 2007,
Another early morning treat when we threw open the curtains, our very cartoon volcano on the horizon. Thankfully it wasn’t an erupting one.
approaching Reykjavik
And being up early we saw the pilot arrive to guide the ship into Reykjavik Harbour.The skyline was full of promise of an exciting city to explore
We decided to forgo the organised excusion to the famous Blue Lagoon, Back in March I had shared the locks on the Hatton flight with a family who turned out to be travel writers, I flippantly asked for any tips about Iceland and was told I must visit the Sky Lagoon, it being newer, a better location, smaller and less busy closer to Reykjavik, and cheaper to boot -with more extras. And after hearing our fellow passengers accounts it seems we chose well. Needless to say you will have to form your own picture of Amanda and I bathing in the thermal waters of the infinity pool overlooking the ocean, of course with a cocktail in hand, before we entered the 7 step spa ritual with its sauna, again overlooking the ocean, the salt scrub and whale music, (don’t picture us leaping into the ice cold plunge pool, that wasn’t so pretty) etc.
I could say that’s it for our trip to Reykjavik, but fortunately it wasn’t. With our radiant skin and chilled out minds we followed our taxi drivers recommendation and found ourselves a cafe serving proper icelandic food. And we sat on the pavement eating soused herring on ryebread
Yes it was delicious
After lunch we followed the rainbow road up to the magnificent Hallgrímskirkja, which although the most impressive of buildings, isnt the Reykjavik cathdral but the parish church. To me its sleek modern architecture summed up how artistic and stylish this island is. And interestingly it is known in English as the Church on the Hill, which is also what the Church our father in law was minister at for many years.
my photos don’t do justice to the scale of this elegant building, known in English as the Church on theHill
And standing watch outside is a monument of Lief Ericsson, the explorer credited with discovering Iceland in the 10th century
Leif Ericsson
Perhaps not all of Iceland’s art is quite as stylish
But I did like the piles of rocks all along the shoreline
We perhaps didn’t make the best of our day exploring Reykjavik, there were many many more attractions that we could have visited. But we had booked ourselves onto a whale watching trip at 3pm so we only had two hours between the spa and what was to be the highlight of our trip. We got ourselves all togged in the gear
And we’re just heading down to the awaiting RIB…..
This was to be a joy ride extraordinaire
…..when our excitement was shattered. The sea conditions had worsened and the waves were now over 2m so our trip was cancelled. To say we were gutted was an understatement. Although with that sort of swell perhaps our guts were secretly relieved. Although it was still only 4pm the last, courtesy bus back to Borealis was at 5. We could have found a taxi and stayed out longer but our spirits were dampened, until of course we got back to the ship, and were met by our favourite waiter, Julius, who gave us a hot toddy before we boarded.
We like to think we were his favourite passengers
all the crew were lovely on board, they were mainly from the Philippines, they all spoke excellent English, and nothing seemed too much trouble for them. We quickly got to know who worked where on the ship, and madam Cheryl and madam Amanda were always greeted with a smile. We’d recommend Fred Olsen as a cruise operator any day. The little extras always made us smile
(And Hi to Steven the cyclist who stopped to say hello yesterday, who let us know he was enjoying the blog- thanks Steven we appreciate knowing)
The itinerary for our 3rd day in Iceland was a gentle hike to the Valagil falls, whilst Borealis was held at anchor in the bay at Ísafjörður. Despite it being midsummer, we looked out at snowcapped hills, and although I hadn’t intended to, I wonder if captured some dolphins in my photo, or perhaps nessie had joined our holiday
are those dolphins or waves
Ísafjörður is a fishing town and the farms were visible from the ship,
fish farming
This was the only port where we had a tender transfer to shore.
Our very own New York taxi
No need for waterproofs today, but we both wrapped up well in our hand knits
Is it wrong to bring your own Icelandic jumper to Iceland, if it is I apologise. Traditional Lopi yarn is usually exported to the UK, but for some reason there has been a shortage, so our sweaters were knitted in another Scandinavian yarn called Drops Alaska, Amanda’s is a traditional icelandic design called Riddari and mine is a modern variation called Telja. We did visit some local yarn stores and saw both yarn and completed knits for sale but I decided not to buy any more.
After my mini photo shoot, our guide pointed to the head of the valley and sent us on our way
Thankfully we didn’t have to climb to the top
Valagil
I also had chance to enjoy some of the many flowers in bloom, many were familiar to me, but the white flower with yellow middle is Holtasóley, Icelands national flower.
Valagil was probably the least dramatic of the waterfalls we’d seen but having the opportunity to stroll and have enough puff to chat to our fellow travellers made it a very enjoyable day.
It also meant that we had the opportunity to have a stroll through the town before we returned to Borealis , Many of the Icelandic towns have embraced inclusively and taken to adding a rainbow street to mark Gay Pride.
Iceland did feel a very welcoming place and we got an overwhelming sense of pride in the country, its history and heritage, as a whole, from our tour guides.
And I saw some colourful Iceland poppies growing in a garden
But it was time to return aboardand as we couldn’t swim that far, we got squashed onto the tender like sardines,
For an exhilarating speed ride – it probably wasn’t all that fast but it was close to the water and felt it
Luckily for us there was a boarding platform but at the end of the day the tenders were hoisted back to deck 3, where they reverted to becoming lifeboats again
We had time to lounge by the pool
Enjoy a curry for dinner
Before an evenings entertainment from a Neil Diamond tribute act
Before we headed up to the observation lounge for some late night dancing
while we watched the midnight sun.
A perfect day that never ended
(And no apologies for the number of photos today, Emma has asked for lots more,)
We woke to find ourselves docked in Akureyri, in total contrast to Monday’s steep sided Fjord, the landscape seemed quite flat.
Akureyri
Although we quickly realised that we couldn’t see the full view, we weren’t sure if we were in the rain, the cloud or a thick mist, probably all three. But nevertheless we donned our most waterproof clothes and braved the days excusion. Our first stop was at the Lake Myvatn visitor center for a bit of a geology lesson about this surreal landscape of thermal springs and mini volcanoes.
We discovered that the “mini volcanoes” were actually a very rare phenomenon only found here in Iceland called pseudocraters.
Lake Mytavn pseudo craters
They are not true volcanic craters made by erupting lava, but are effectively the burst bubbles made when hot lava flows over wetlands and the steam created between lava and water, bursts up through the lava like a bubble in a boiling pan of soup.
For Game of thrones fans, Lake Mytavn is where Jon Snow and Ygritte got hot and steamy, amongst the hot steam in series 3. However despite the landscape being perfect for a bit of fantasy escapism, most of us escaped back to the tour bus pretty quickly to escape the cold wind and rain. Most of my photos were taken from the moving bus.
It was a great shame we couldn’t explore further because it really did feel like we were on another planet, so much so that it is where many of the space expeditions vehicles are tested over the incredible terrain.
Our tour continued inland weaving through the lava fields and thermal vents until we reached the mighty Waterfall Dettifoss
we knew it was mighty because it was so noisy, even if we couldn’t see all its grandeur
It was only a short walk from the parking area to the viewing area but in the 5 minutes it took we got thoroughly soaked and chilled through, but it didn’t dampen our spirits, Thank goodness we’d brought a hip flask, Posing for photos was a fruitless cause.
still smiling
Again we didn’t linger but leapt back on the coach to visit our second waterfall of the day. This time the mighty Goðafoss. At first we could only hear the roar as we walked upstream, but we knew we were in for a treat.
The legend tells of the local chieftain Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, who decided that all Icelanders should adopt the Christian faith. To prove his commitment, he threw all of his statues of Pagan gods into the waterfall, it became known as Goðafoss, which translates to the “waterfall of the gods” No one talks about having found those Pagan relics, but I can’t imagine anyone brave or daft enough to dive under the water to search for them
Again as with the previous days hike, the infrastructure that enabled people like us to enjoy the area was brilliant.
Iceland is such a dramatic place, from our first sighting as Borealis cruised into the Eastern fishing village of Seydisfjordur, we knew we were in for a treat, as we leaned over the balcony and gazed up at the waterfalls plummiting right into the sea. What would we find beyond the cloud
Despite the low cloud, we were filled with excitment about what we were to see. Donning our icelandic hand knitted sweaters we joined an excusion to visit the Hengifoss Waterfall.
Admittedly we were a bit apprehensive about being herded onto a coach with 60 “more mature travellers” and feared driving for hours, the comical situation of being turfed out for toilet stops, photo opportunities and obligatory purchase of a stuffed toy puffin, so we deliberately chose excusions that included a “good hike”. It was still a long drive, and we did have a pit stop. But the journey itself was worth it, as we climbed to the plateau, looking down at the ship in the distance.
And above the cloud level, we saw the last remnants of the winter snow.
we were assured that this snow would all be gone within a few weeks
Eventually we reached the start of our hike. And oh boy it was definitely a hike, the coach dropped us off in the valley and it didn’t take long before we were shedding layers as we warmed up.
But plenty of excuses to stop for photos – and catch our breathe, as we still had a long way to reach the summit
half way
But it was worth it.
Hengifoss
And we had plenty of time to sit around taking in all the amazing rock formations, the clarity of the air, the peace and gentle chatter of happy people.
Just look at those rock formations
Apparently these magnificent powerful waterfalls do freeze in winter, and the hardy souls still climb the path to see them
The Icelandic community take great pride in their landscape, there was no litter from man or beast, and the footpaths were wide and well maintained, so no necessity to take short cuts and cause erosion
Each turn revealed more amazing rock structures formed through a combination of volcanic and glacial movements
The downside of having chosen to do this hiking excusion, meant that we didn’t get the opportunity to walk around the village,
Seydisfjordur
But we had a very very good day,
And still had the energy to dance the night away after a spot of early evening whale watching
Please forgive the number of photos I’m sharing, this is as much my own diary for me to remember a great holiday, I hope you can enjoy them as much as I enjoy recording them, but its without expectation.
Don’t they say “when in Rome do as the Romans do”, now we’re in Liverpool, its no longer just enough to Ferry across the Mersey, the Historic waterfront is now a major cruise destination. Last year my Sister in Law, Amanda asked me join her on a cruise to Iceland. I was about to jump ship from our lovely little narrowboat onto the Fred Olsen Borealis, for a 10 night trip in search of whales and waterfalls.
MS Borealis, our cabin was directly 2 decks above the C
Neither of us were too sure what to expect, what to wear, how to act, would we get seasick, or bored, What was my tag line going to be? “no I’ve never cruised before”, or actually, “well I’m a continual cruiser, beat that”. But we needn’t have worried, we soon fell into being waited on hand and foot, a very easy existence to get used to. And the whole atmosphere was very welcoming and friendly, and we were given something appropriate to wear.
Glad we don’t have to wear these on the narrowboat
And we quickly discovered what food and drink was on offer
We started as we meant to go on
And I think we had more room in our cabin than I have on Firecrest
Although after our initial walk around I didn’t think we’d be spending much time in the cabin
The lido deck
I think we were the only passengers who had someone come and wave them off as Eric stood on shore and waved us off
bye bye Eric, see you in 10 days
He was going cruise out of Salthouse the following morning and moor up near Maghull to wait for me, interesting to see the Stanley Flight, tobacco warehouse and Titanic Hotel from the opposite side.
Looking back into merseyside
In the mean time Amanda and I had to dress for dinner, (it was more casual most nights)
What a pair
And then settled in for the cabaret, although we decided that was a bit cheesy so most of our evenings were spent dancing with the band, bogeying with the piano guy or just chilling with the vocalist
I wish I had a band like this on board my boat
We had 2 full days at sea before we reached Iceland, but no shortage of things to do Bar billiards,
Table tennis, (it was too windy for the paddle tennis and the outdoor deck sports)
And there was the gym, the jaccuzi, the spa, and beauty salon, We attended lectures about Whales and Icelands geology and history, we joined the Orca team on the observation deck looking out for whales,
yes there’s a whale
But although the sky was blue, the wind was so strong they had to close the deck shortly after this, it was nigh on impossible to stand upright, let alone watch for whales. We did however have several sightings, although most were in the distance, our on board experts said we saw Orca, Blue, Fin, Humpback, Pilot and sperm whales during the cruise.
One of our highlights was seeing the Midnight sun not setting
21st or was it 22nd June
Another was dressing up in the sort of sparkly clothes that aren’t my usual cruise wear
There was so much to do see and enjoy on the ship, that we realised by our 10th night we still hadn’t explored the whole ship or sampled all its delicacies, yet we weren’t returning home feeling fat and lazy, but energised and invigorated.
Those chocolates were delicious
And that was just the cruise, we still had to explore Iceland.
Our first view of Iceland at 6am on the Monday morning
(Please forgive the number of photos I’m sharing, this is as much my own diary for me to remember a great holiday, I hope you can enjoy them as much as I enjoy recording them, but its without expectation.)