Holidaying in Liverpool

One of the things we laugh about with the passers by on the towpath, is that now we live on a boat, we never go on holiday. But that just isn’t true. Sometimes when we’ve reached our goal destination, in this case Salthouse Dock in Liverpool, it just creates that carefree mood that makes it feel like a holiday. And let’s face it, how many times do people say “but its nice to get home and sleep in my own bed”, we have the best of both worlds, we take our home on holiday with us. And so we settled down to make the most of a secure mooring right slap bang in the heart of a vibrant city, and a city still buzzing with the echos of eurovision. Of course our week started  in typical Salthouse Dock style when the heatwave broke with a mega thunderstorm.

I’m surprised those raindrops didn’t take the paint off, it was ferocious.

But once the rain stopped we could see the jellyfish swimming about the dock (even though the reflected clouds make them hard to capture)

Moon Jellyfish frequently seen in Salthouse Dock

Of course a good holiday needs good food and our first treat was a trip to our favourite Albert dock bakery, Rough Handmade. I called in to ask for their spinach and feta rolls

Picture swiped from Rough Hand Made website

but they were still in the oven, come back in half an hour, so we went back in 45 minutes, sorry still not ready. So off we went to do a bit of sight seeing,  and when we came back guess what, they’d sold out, but to our absolute delight, the owner had put two aside on the off chance we’d return. Now that’s what I call service, of course we gobbled them down straight away.
And threw the bag away carefully, sadly not everyone does and we saw this seagull wandering around rather smartly dressed.

Best bib and tucker and to be fare, the seagull might have been scavenging in the bins, (and it’s not RHM packaging)

Whist we might have spent 8 months in Liverpool in 2019/20, we weren’t able to visit the attractions, so top of our list was to do the tour of the Liver building. Built in 1907, it isn’t actually all that old compared to much of our countries heritage, but its ground breaking because its one of the first buildings to be made from reinforced concrete.

And with 360° views from the top

Looking down onto the museum and canal
The cruise ships and new Everton ground
Bertie the Liver Bird, (Bella looks out to sea) and Anfield home to the best football team way over in the distance

And if the trees weren’t in leaf, we’d be able to see Firecrest in Salthouse Dock

We weren’t the only ones enjoying the liver building as Sky Arts landscape artist of the year was being filmed this week,

lights camera action….

If was quite an eye opener seeing how the competitors were asked to pose whist painting, and I heard Stephen Mangan call out times up at least three times. I think the show is to be aired in January and there’s a high chance I’m in shot at the end, although I didn’t realise so at the time-honest.

…. and will the artists please put down your paint brushes

It seems people watching is a favourite pass time for many in Liverpool and we did love this exhibit in the museum

As our week was drawing to a close, our sister in law Amanda joined us, ready to start our next holiday, a cruise to Iceland on Fred Olsen’s Borealis. And what better way to start a holiday than with cocktails in the Albert Dock

The final leg, The Liverpool Link

With our new lock buddies, we set off down the Stanley flight. It was
Helen and Russell’s first journey onto Liverpool Link canal – We
felt like old pro’s, this is the third time we had
done this trip.

With many thanks to the willing volunteers for seeing us both down the Stanley Flight locks

Basking in the glorious weather we cruised towards the bascule bridge

Will we fit underneath?

Begrudgingly admired the brand new Everton football ground being built on the reclaimed waterfront

I suppose there’s room for two clubs in Liverpool although only one worthy of lifting the silverware

We slid along Sid’s ditch

Sid the volunteer synonymous with the link canal

Saluting the Liverbirds

Perhaps not the best viewing angle of the Liver Building, but its a privilege to be able to cruise outside its front door

Through the tunnel under the museum

We provided a photo opportunity for the tourists on the bridge into the Albert dock

And finally out into Salthouse dock

And mooring up on our favourite pontoon

It feels like we’ve come home after spending nearly 9 months here, after taking a 2019 winter mooring and then getting locked in for covid in 2020

back in 2020

Our covid padlocks are still there albeit a bit faded, we’ve kept in touch with our lockdown buddies although sadly Angie is no longer with us,

Our Journey has taken us from Leighton Buzzard on 1st January up along the Grand Union canal, through Braunston, Warwick, Birmingham, Stourbridge, past Stafford, through the Harecastle tunnel, down Heartbreak Hill, onto the Bridgewater canal and finally onto the Leeds and Liverpool and Liverpool Link to complete our journey. We’ve had a few delays for canal maintenance, weather, being frozen inn, and a few long stays for family visits, we’ve had to revise our route a couple of times to avoid getting stuck, we’ve met old friends and made new friends, laughed and cried, I even fell in, but no photos and no blog posts about that.
The journey has been 281 miles long, and we’ve done 219 locks, 23 swing or lift bridges, and cruised on 15 canals. Canal planner suggests its 143 hours cruising, we did it 6 months and 10 days.

Swiped from AC CANAL PLANNER

And now I think we deserve a holiday. But more of that later

Almost there

Getting through Wigan was proving to be a game of chance, will there or won’t there be water in the locks, or inbetween the locks for that matter. So we formed a queue at Scotsmans Flash with several others to await the go-ahead.

Wish they’d clean up after themselves

At the time the Wigan Flight was just about still open, with daily updates and horror stories about boaters  reaching the top few locks only to have to reverse all the way back down. As I write this, I fear the maintenance of the system is just so overwhelming that the powers that be will just give up and close sections like the Wigan flight permanently. But it’s not a black and white issue and I’m glad I’m not the one making the big decisions. And to get back to our journey, we made it through at the second attempt. Past the iconic Wigan Pier

I have to say, I’ve seen bigger and better, but this one always makes me smile

We do like the section between Wigan and Burscough, there’s some nice peaceful moorings.

somewhere east of Appley Bridge

And if I’m lucky I’ll see my favourite trade boat – the wool boat

The Wool Boat

For most of the way there’s also the railway within walking distance of the canal, so I took the opportunity to hop on a train and head up to the Lakes to see Mum,, actually it’s where my dentist is, but don’t tell him about the icecream


Whilst I was there, the Westmorland County Fest show was on, I was expecting to see sheep

But we got giant Madagascar tortoises as well, who live on a farm in westmorland

love at first sight

From Burscough through to the Stanley Flight is a bit more tedious, the canal ploughs through the cottage garden of the North, but instead of bridges, the fields are  crossed by swing bridges. It’s not too bad working through these with a crew, but I feel for the single handed boaters, negotiating overgrown landings and inconsiderate boaters who tie up on the bollards is hard work.

But we made it through to Litherland, staging post for the Liverpool link

what’s the rush

What’s the rush,

I’ve been somewhat distracted over the past month or so. Now we were on the Bridgewater it felt like Firecrest was within touching distance of its final destination, Liverpool. So close to the Mersey, yet from Preston Brook to Salthouse Dock, it is 74 miles and another 14 locks and we had a whole month to complete our journey.
We have cruised the Bridgewater before so we knew roughly where we wanted to stop. We enjoyed a day in Lymm but behaved ourselves so we didn’t get locked in the stocks,

Lyme market Cross and Stocks

We explored the house

Inside Dunham Massey

and grounds of NT Dunham Massey

And the garden residents

We stopped for breakfast at the  fabulous https://www.waltonperk.co.uk/ Walton Perk NB cafe and enjoyed a Bridgewater special,  basically a bacon butty but in a toasted teacake with gherkin and mustard.

https://www.waltonperk.co.uk/

Before we crossed the incredible feat of engineering, the Barton Swing Bridge

And we were lucky enough to snag the prime mooring spot with an uninterrupted view of the Packet House in Worsely. And whilst it might be a stunning 18th Century building, it’s effectively was just the ticket office and station platform for those wanting to travel along the Bridgewater into Manchester

Ive always fancied a house with a garden mooring

Whilst we were moored in Worsley we took the opportunity to walk to the newly opened RHS gardens, making the most of our years membership that we purchased last year whilst we were on the River Wey at Wisley. Being end of May, the gardens were dominated by Alliums and Iris. The gardens is obviously still being developed over its huge site, so it will be fun to return  in years to come and watch it grow. We added a comment to the suggestion box…. Where’s the visitor mooring! It might only be a mile from Worsley, but its practically a mile to circumnavigate the car park from the towpath.

and I’d like a garden with flowers like these

With our 7 days of permitted time on the Bridgewater, it was off up to Scotsmans Flash on the Leigh branch for a few days

Scotsmans Flash

Although with the recurrent lack of water issues at Wigan we did fear we might get stuck there until monsoon season returned but another Pondstock Lock is invariably drained overnight, vandalism or leaky gates, who knows, we were able to get through and into Lancashire, only 35 Miles to go