Messing about at Middleport

Waking up with history on our doorstep

We have a vague memory from back in 2017 when we moved aboard, of us saying we’d always try to moor in a different place. Middleport pottery quickly fell through that net. Its not the perfect mooring, but its a mooring we enjoy and we seem to keep coming back to it. Probably because its within easy reach of the Harecastle Tunnel, and we dont have to put up with honking geese and goose poo if we were to moor at Westport Lakes. And of course, we love the architectural heritage of being able to moor right opposite a pottery built in 1888. I can’t get enough of bottle kilns.

Being Easter Weekend we assumed we’d get some bad weather, but Saturday proved to be dry and sunny- until storm Dave put in an appearance and blew the cobwebs away. The pottery was hosting a Steam Punk extravaganza on the Saturday, alas victorian sci-fi fashion isnt the most practical boat wear so we donned our jeans and waterproofs and went to admire what others were wearing.

I love the idea of creating a unique outfit, where  rules are meant to be broken, but not all steam punk is quite so relaxed. We came across the highly competitive sport of tea dueling.

These two starving urchins had been dragged off the street for our entertainment with the temptation of being allowed to eat a whole malted milk biscuit. However, they were first to endure a tortuous duel. Having dunked their biscuit into a freshly poured cup of tea for precisely 3 second, (as counted down by the audience) they competed to hold their biscuit upright, without it breaking, for the longest time without devouring it in one greedy mouthful. One urchin lasted 41 seconds the other 42. And the audience was well entertained.
We resumed our self guided tour of the pottery, which although it has developed as a heritage site, preserving its old buildings, it is still a working pottery and a teaching site for budding potters. I’d have loved to have joined a class but they were all full up this weekend. Instead we had a look at the bath house. Right up until the 1950s it was unusual for the workers terrace houses to have an indoor bathroom, or even a zinc tub of their own, so the Mills would often have bath houses available for their employees to use. During world war II this bath house was the designated bomb shelter to accommodate 38 people. The factory employed over 200.

Whilst we were enjoying Middleport, I saw directions to  Oatbakers. Which according to various online reviews serves the best Staffordshire oatcakes available. As you would expect Eric opted for the challenger, a giant Oatcake. I always thought an Oatcake was a crisp biscuit that you’d eat with cheese. These however are more like a pancake, served with a sweet or savoury filling. We chose cheese and bacon. If you moor at Middleport or at Westport, the bakery is within easy walking distance, and worth a visit.

Despite the area being quite run down, theres a great community spirit. Even though Port Vale lost against Chelsea in the football FA cup quarter final. Someone has a sense of humour creating the secret garden

I was curious to know what was behind the doors. And I just happened to meet a local who had lived in Middleport all his life. This building used to be a state of the art bakery. But it is now crumbling away and the secret garden is just a teaser, someone covering up a boarded up entrance.

We stayed 4 nights at the Middleport Pottery, this time. I am sure we will be back. But for now we were preparing to say goodbye to Staffordshire as we cruised towards Cheshire, so I couldnt not share this Staffie who came to say hello to us.

The Upper Lee Navigation

Once we passed under the M25 the navigation did get more pleasant.

The M25 bridge

We enjoyed a night moored in the pretty little village of Stanstead Abbot. there’s a useful marina and small chandlery although they were out of stock of mooring pins, which we urgently need . The Co-op was well stocked though.

We were lucky to get in here

And the next night we were in Ware. A small town full of history, and rivalry with Hertford for being a significant staging post on the roads north. However Wares prosperity grew up quenching the thirst of Londoners, both with fresh water and beer. An artificial waterway was created in the early 17th century to channel water from the natural spring at Ware into London. Its still in use today carrying around 8% of londons drinking water, thats around 220million litres per day. Ware also played a significant role in the brewing industry supplying malt the London Brewers, and then brewing in the town itself. Several malt houses can still be seen from the river, but what marks Ware out is the Gazebos of Ware. In the 18th and 19th centuries the inkeepers and property owners needed a quiet place to retreat from the hectic highstreet and it became fashionable to build these overhanging summerhouses onto the river. Known as the Gazebos, they are are quaintly unique to this area.

The Gazebos of Ware


We continued our journey though some lovely rolling countryside

Until we could go no further

We struggled to get moored in Hertford, (the canal is quite narrow and overgrown here) which is a pity, because it looked an interesting place, albeit one that had become a significant commuter town for those wanting to get into London for work.

Cruising into Hertford

Oxford, part 1 – all work and no play

Of course I’d like to say I studied here, well no not really, it wouldn’t have been the best or right place for either of us, but oh boy what a lovely place to immerse yourself in academia if you’re so inclined.

One very proud young man


And the day we explored was graduation day so plenty of smiling happy family’s milling around the closed gates Sheldonian.


And without any logical plan of our own we just walked around town enjoying the atmosphere

And soaking up some of the history of the place

The faculty of history building

There was too much reading up to do

The Bodleian library

and taking good photos was proving difficult

The Radcliffe camera

But Christchurch has to be the most magnificent

Christchurch from the meadows

Or perhaps not wanting to be left behind Magdalen College

Magdalen College

Which sits on the banks of the Cherwell and where we could watch the haphazard tourists trying to outdo the students punting. The queue was long so we didn’t have a go

Punting on the cherwell

And we ended our day back at Christchurch for choral evensong

Inside the quad a christchurch
Awaiting evensong