Through the Tunnel and a bit of a scare.

The tomato soup (iron oxide ground seepage) was looking good as we pulled up at the tunnel entrance to await an unbooked passage. There was a boat coming south, so the gate keeper agreed we had plenty of time to fill up with water.

Making good use of our waiting time

And it gave me a chance to wander around and see the second tunnel

Brindley’s tunnel

The second tunnel was actually the first. Built by James Brindley as part of the initial canal structure in 1770. At 1.6 miles long, it was the longest tunnel on the network but its 7 year construction was fraught with engineering difficulties as the ground structure changed from soft earth to hard millstone grit. The tunnel was narrow and it took 2 men 3 hours to leg through. The boat kids walked the ponies over the top of the hill along Boathorse Lane. It was decided that the ecconomic value of the canal to the potteries warranted a second tunnel, this time built in 3 years by Thomas Telford. It was wide enough to accommodate a towing path, although the ponies still didnt like being underground for such a long time. Average transit time was now 90 minutes. Despite its limited capacity and frequent structural problems, Brindley’s tunnel remained in use until 1914 when it became uneconomical to repair. Telford’s tunnel also had its fair share of subsidence with the towpath sinking below water level. In 1914 electric tugs were used to haul the boats until the mid 50’s, when most boats had a diesel engine. Major repairs were needed in the 70’s so the authorities removed the towpath completely.
Nowadays it takes between 30 and 40 minutes to complete the passage. CRT operate a booking system, to manage the traffic, although there is still turn up and wait option from 10 until 2 each day (please check their website as these times change)
And we made it out the otherside.

Here be dragons

There’s a very convenient Lidl on the canalside just after the tunnel, so we moored up and I went off to restock the fridge. We had full sunshine and it fell safe and secure so we stayed put for the night. Besides I was busy trying to take photos of the ducklings.

If only they’d keep still for a good photo

Safe and secure we thought…. until the following morning when we fell out of bed, literally, and I do mean literally. The boat was listing at a horrible angle. It was barely light, but we realised that there had been a significant drop in the water level and we were hanging on with our ropes. What with last year’s Bridgewater Breach and this year’s Whitchurch Breach we were relieved not to see any water rushing past us, but even so, with a drop of two foot, that was significant. And yes we were quite worried.

That doesn’t look right

We could barely stand up inside, and things had slid onto the floor. Luckily no breakages. It was difficult to get off the boat with the combination of the level difference and angle.

And I dont like the look of that Armco either

But our first thought was that some *%&£@ had left the paddles up on the lock below us. We walked to both the locks above and below us and all the gates and paddles were closed, and the adjacent water levels seemed to be correct. It was only our pound between locks 45 and 46 that had lost water.

The angle the boat was at was a lot more scarey than it looks

The obvious solution was that we should simply run some water down from the pound above us, but what if this level drop were a structural incident or an imminent failure. At 6.30, having spoken to the other boater in the same plight as us, we decided to play the better safe than sorry card and call the CRT emergency line only to get a recorded, “all our operators are busy right now” message. Not even an option to leave a message. What would have happened if this had been a serious breach or real emergency, ok I’d have dialled 999 but even so what good is an unmanned emergency line. When I did get through at 7.30 . Stating we were moored between 45 and 46 on the Trent and Mersey, the operator, then asked “exactly where are you” …between locks 45 and 46 on the T&M… “and where’s that?”… Kidsgrove, near the harecastle tunnel…”I can’t find that on the map” ….Eventually, they located us, and said they’d contact the local team who would call us back. Come on CRT, forget installing fancy signage and food waste bins, how about a better map system for your operators. By now we were thoroughly cheesed off, worried and annoyed and other boaters were also chomping at the bit. By 9.30 some volunteers had turned up. And they did what we should possibly have done 3 hours earlier. They just opened up the lock and ran water through. We never got our call back. We have no idea if any investigation was done as to the cause of the water loss. They just patted us on the back and said someone must have left a paddle up. Of course I should really have filed a “near miss” complaint. The what ifs dont bear thinking about. And I’m not even going to think about the state of that Almco below water level. Out of sight out of mind.

That’s better, I can stand up straight now.

Once we were refloated we just escaped and worked our way down the next 5 locks and left them too it. We were going to enjoy a late brunch and some peace. Our emotions had been put through the wringer and we’d had enough for one day.

That’s more like it.

Once more unto the breach dear friends

On New Year’s Eve we had sat planning our cruising route for the upcoming year, “let’s go north along the Bridgewater and do the Leeds and Liverpool West to East….”
Well that plan sprung a leak didnt it. A great big one, when on New Year’s Day the Bridgewater sustained a catastrophic breach at Little Bollington. It wasn’t rocket science to know this wasn’t going to be fixed in a few weeks, more likely a few years.

Taken from the IWA website

Fellow continuous cruisers and prolific Vloggers, Taylors Aboard, had the misfortune to be moored close enough to be directly affected by this breach. They provided some excellent drone footage of what they woke up to on New Year’s day, and the ensuing aftermath documenting it in real time. It was a horrific experience and we can only thank God that no one was actually injured or worse killed that day.

Plan B, we’ll go via the Macclesfield, through Manchester and bypass the breach, until, guess what….on April fools day, just above the Bosley locks, the Macclesfield breached as well. Not quite so catastrophic as the Bridgewater, and will probably only take a few monts to repair. But somewhat more frustrating as CRT had been aware of the potential problem and had executed a temporary repair back in November.  I’m not going to cast blame because it’s not straightforward, but we can’t help but wonder why “they” let this happen.

The 2025 Macclesfield breach (photo from Manchester evening news)

We’re still not totally sure what Plan C is, but as we left Uplands Marina, we decided to turn left and take a few days heading towards Lymm, about as far as we can get before the breach. Despite it coming up to Easter Weekend, the canal was quiet, which is a good thing as the Barnton tunnel is one way and relies upon boaters not entering if someone else has got there first. And with awkward angles entering the tunnel that’s not easy. Luckily, the oncoming boat travelling south realised just in time and didn’t hit us while we were inside.

Unfortunately we weren’t quite so lucky  when we passed through bridge 211. I’d hopped off so I could take another photo of our lovely shiny boat,

Forgive me, it’ll be a while before I stop posting gratuitous photos of Firecrest

When we saw another boat coming towards us,

Umm, that looks like a tight squeeze

Although Eric steered to the side, it was shallow, he grounded and couldn’t move,

No it’s not a contact sport….

And yes we sustained our first scratch. Oh well it had to happen sometime, just wish it hadn’t been on day one. And to be fair, it was accidental, not malicious.
We moored up for the night at the site of the 2012 Dutton Breach. And while I enjoyed the lovely evening view, Eric got the touch up paint out and got rid of the scratch.

Looking down towards the River Weaver and the rail viaduct


And we saw our first ducklings of the year.

Where only the brave go, or the intrepid….

We do like the mooring at the Bumblehole, but curiosity got the better of us, wondering what we’d find down the Hawne Arm.

This way to Hawne Basin

We had been warned that the Gosty Tunnel was low and the water shallow, but the rewards would be cheap diesel at Hawne basin…. Paul and his crew from Waterways Routes, were moored next to us, and encouraged us to give it a go

hello waterway routes

A lot of effort has been put into encouraging people to make the most of the canals around here, and local artist Luke Perry has a series of 31 sculptures that represent the people and heritage of the Dudley 2,  This graffiti artist  is telling us that this was the Tollmans office, where he would set the toll fee using a notched freeboard stick to calculate the weight of the boat. 

if you cant beat them, join them

Sadly there’s a lot of derelict neglect to be seen around here, despite some gems, the sculpture we liked the most is the elephant, who was found frolicking in the canal in the 1900s. I wonder how CRT would have handled that one…

For a backwater only 2 miles long there was plenty to make us smile,

And the geese don’t mind building their nests amongst the rubble

Then the entrance to the notoriously low Gosty Tunnel

Gosty Tunnel, here we come

Which isn’t all that long, and didn’t seem that low…..

Light at the end of the tunnel

At first…

But there was a nice friendly fella distracting us from the warning white paint

Concentrate captain

Or perhaps not so friendly

Someones got a sense of humour

And yes we really did have to duck

glad we took the aerials down

But we followed the light at the end of the tunnel and made it out, without becoming victim to the rocky sides or count dracula. We were treated to some impressive old brickwork. This stretch of the canal had been vital to the former Stewarts and Lloyd’s steel works.

No wonder Tolkein got inspiration for Lord of the Rings from here

Hawne Basin had been the rail interchange for transhipment of S&Ls huge steel tubes, and is now the end of navigation. The original line had gone a further 5 miles to Selly Oak cutting out the centre of Birmingham

entrance to Hawne Basin

We picked up fuel for less than £/l  wishing we had had an emptier tank. The reception was welcoming, and the community spirit obvious, I am sure they would have found us space for an overnight stay if we had asked. But we’d decided to make the return trip to Bumblehole the same day. Eric had promised me a black country speciality for tea,  battered chips. Yes they really were that orange, and yes there was a huge piece of fish under them. Another good reason to plan a return trip this way.

Delicious

Helping hands at Hatton

With the mighty Hatton Flight looming ahead of us and with the prospect of company we didn’t linger to enjoy the delights of Royal Leamington Spa. For such a historic Georgian spa town, the canal through Leamington is a bit of a perfunctory back water. At one point we wondered if we would actually get through when we saw this leviathan looming ahead. Ok, we knew we’d fit, but there wasn’t clearance for a similar 14foot widebeam to pass. We really don’t know how they would have handled that situation.

Nice to live in, just not ideal to cruise in


The mile or so between Leamington and Warwick is a gift for boaters with Morrisons, Lidl and Tesco all having mooring right outside. We languished at Lidl whilst the passing storm clouds attempted to deal with the water shortages

myton visitor mooring, (aka outside Lidl)

We cruised through Warwick only stopping one night. Another place where the canal is not valued as an asset to the town if the state of the towpath is anything to go by. Until you get to the Hatton Flight, which is a real gem for gongoozlers and historians. Although boaters know it as the Stairway to Heaven because 21 double locks is such hard work. We struck lucky, no rain and finding ourselves a lock buddy to start the day.

We’d planned to moor up on the armco after the fourth lock so our family could join us, but the lock keeper told us to moor after the eleventh, on the bollards at Asylum Wharf. We were a bit reluctant because it was the lock landing, and it’s not good etiquette, but he assured us traffic was light and he’d make sure the gates were open so if anyone came through they wouldn’t need to stop. And a spectacular view


Heather and Ant were just passing through so they stayed for breakfast and we were on our way an hour later

I cant think why, but they didn’t offer to crew for us up the remaining 10 locks but we had another secret weapon. Friends who live locally. Ironically because of how well maintained the flight is, and the willing volunteer lockies, we flew up the remaining locks in super fast time

and James only arrived in time to do the last 3 locks, but never the less, we set him to work.

He’s a willing volunteer

As his reward, he was allowed to take the helm as we cruised

on through the haunted Shrewley tunnel.

no ghosts today

All in all we’d had a fantastic day, all our stars aligned

5 miles, 21 double locks, 1 tunnel and 2 lots of visitors- we slept well that night.