Sheffield is known for its creativity and in the 60s the University built the iconic Arts Tower, which is still the tallest academic building in the UK. I’d have loved to have gone to the top to look down but we joined the students in Weston gardens looking up.
It seems like Sheffield has a love of tall art, we came across this wall mural called “The Snog” by Pete McKee
And even more impressive was the “Steelworker” by Paul Waplington. It uses 18 different types of brick 30000 in total and 5 different mortars.
Sheffield is rightly proud of its Steel industry although sadly it’s on its last legs now. Regardless of my political leanings I feel quite strongly about this, as I expect these sheffield women of steel would also.
But they do have some funny ideas of what we like to see in our public art. This is known as the spiders web bridge, crossing the River Don under one of the Wicker Arches
It’s actually a very clever suspension bridge that takes it’s inspiration from nature and the cables are attached to the sides of the old brick archway
I made if safely across in both directions so I could go and explore some more.
One of the things that Sheffield does incredibly well is public transport. There are buses and trams everywhere you look.
So we bought a weeks rover ticket for £17 and hopped on and off exploring north south east and west. We had to pay a little extra to get to Castleton, because that’s in Derbyshire. But it was worth it. We sat like excited children on the top deck in the scenic seats at the front. It would ha’ve been worth it just to do a round trip, the views were amazing, so much better than when we’ve done it by car, even whilst we were still in the city
Once we got to Castleton, walked up to past Windy Knoll to Mam Tor
We stopped at the Blue John Mine cafe for a piece of Blue John cake, they even let us eat our own sandwiches at their cafe
And what a view, looking down the valley. If you watch channel 4, this is where they filmed one of their “indents” with the big steel walking man.
Refreshed we continued our walk upwards but as it was very windy and we were reliant on the hourly bus we opted to follow the summit. Mam Tor is also known as the shivering mountain because of its frequent land slips. The road to Chapel en le Frith notoriously fell victim to this and in the mid 70s the powers that be realised their lack of power and gave up trying to save it.
We scrambled across the tarmac islands and continues on our way. There’s so many opportunities to walk around here, we came out into the Peak District a couple of times. And I’m sure we’ll be back.
Eric and I both studied in Sheffield back in the 80s. But at opposite ends of the city, our memories are somewhat different. I remember landing in a multicultural sprawl at the height of the miners strike, and decline of the steel industry. Eric was cloistered in one of the countries finest red brick universities on the edge of the Peak District.
We both have a lot of fond memories and we were keen to explore, although I couldn’t quite bring myself to get on the bus that used to cost me 6p a journey and venture back up Spittal Hill, under the Wicker Arches to Fir Vale because I knew that old Victorian workhouse cum hospital had grown even larger and and entered the 21 century. I loved nursing on a nightingale ward where the recuperating patients took the tea trolley around in the early morning whilst I as a second year nurse took responsibility for the whole ward overnight.
The Maplin building that nurtured Eric’s engineering skills was undergoing refurbishment and shrouded in scaffolding which was a disappointment. And the tower block accommodation had been demolished years ago to be replaced by more modern student digs. In fact Sheffield has become the place to be now for students. The old poly has become the Hallam university, and the whole city was awash with developement for the student population. Some buildings were striking in their contemporary design, but we did wonder how the mish mash of old and modern would weather the years and if all that glass and steel cladding would need replacing long before the red brick.
Sheffield centre has a vibrant open feel, There’s plenty of space to sit and people watch, the children are actively encouraged to play in the dancing fountain of the Peace Garden. There’s green planting all over the city and the Winter garden is a haven for those needing somewhere sheltered to eat their lunch.
Sadly we couldn’t avoid seeing the less fortunate than ourselves, the area around Victoria Quays is still being redeveloped and although the basin itself felt safe, we knew we weren’t far from the homeless, jobless and the addicts. And I wonder if the redevelopements do anything to help this segment of society, or does it just reduce the amount of dark corners that they can take some shelter in.
I had to write a post about Sprotbrough because I just love the sound of it. I mean who wouldn’t want to live in a place called Sprotbrough. Lots of people have over the years, it was mentioned in the doomsday book, where it was known as Sprot’s Borough. Try as I might I couldn’t find out who Sprot was. However I digress. We left the sunshine in Barnby Dunn, stopping the traffic as we lifted the bridge, and continued south.
It wasn’t time to stop as we came through Doncaster although the catherdral looked impressive and if we can locate a decent mooring we might explore on the way back.
The canal mingles with the River Don but remains wide and easy with signs of its industrial heritage along the way. Old dilapidated warehouses
And some beautiful old bridges spanning the gorges.
This remains a commercial canal and the locks along this section are hydrolically operated, if you’re lucky and time it right, CRT are on hand to see you through but most of the time the amber light indicates we have to operate them ourselves. Eric had to trust me because we were too far away to see each others hand signals in Sprotbrough Lock
Sprotbrough is a desirable village with some lovely old impressive houses and an expensive gastro pub. The visitor mooring is above the lock opposite the pub. The Wyre Lady runs it’s trips from here. It’s a heritage boat built in 1938 as a railway passenger ferry for the Caledonian Steam Packet company
We’re not sure what the original builders Danny’s of Dumbarton would have thought of the local wildlife waiting for their evening cruise, but we enjoyed watching them.
During the day the sheep who live next to the mooring caught my eye
And we came across a plaque remembering one of Sprotbrough’s more remarkable inhabitants
We were sitting, having morning coffee, enjoying the glorious sunshine, when Eric gave me a funny look, “stop rocking the boat” he said. “I’m not” I replied, but we’d started to sway too and fro quite dramatically. Huh, must be another speeding boat with no regard for other boaters and bank conservation. We hadn’t seen anything go past but the lift bridge was open. Then we saw “it” approach, a good 10-15 minutes after we first felt the water move.
Oh my goodness it’s a Leviathon. And we decided the safest place would be on dry land .
Then we remembered the warning that Cherryl and Ian had given us at Thorne, watch out for the Exol Pride.
This is the commercial oil tanker delivering fuel from Goole on the Humber estuary, to Rotherham now on its return journey with lubrication oil. It does the trip once or twice a week depending on the tides at Goole. It is 60m, yes that’s 60 metres long and 6m wide. Firecrest is 60 feet long and 6.10 feet wide. (18 m but no-one really used metric for a narrowboat) the Exol Pride gross tonnage is 380 and deadweight 650t. we weight about 18t No wonder we felt like a minnow next to a blue whale.
We’re glad we got out of the boat because even though it seemed to glide past quite gracefully, it certainly wasnt hanging around and created quite a wash. And we hung on to our centre rope for a bit of extra stability.
Once it had passed and we’d started to breathe again, Eric re-pinned us more securely again. What an experience, we’re very glad that we were moored as the Pride came past us. We’ve since found out that the lock keepers are usually up to date with her travelling times and we will be able to adjust our return trip taking this into consideration.
There’s a chance we will see the Pride on our return journey. We could use our VHF radio to listen in to its progress, but the lockies are a fount of information so we could just ask them. CRT work with the oil company to ensure the Pride’s safe passage. Obviously a ship that size can’t just moor up and let the crew off to work the locks, for a start it would have to slow down before it set off, so 2 lock keepers play leap frog and drive ahead to each lock or bridge to prepare it. We benefit from this because there are more lock keepers around to help us. And the canal and locks are well maintained.
Having cruised every day for a week, when we moored up at Barnby Dun just before the lift bridge, we decided to take advantage of this little rural beauty spot by staying put for a few days.
It had everything we needed, the butcher, baker and candlestick seller. For boaters it has a very clean facilities block, but sadly no village pub. However that didn’t stop us enjoying some pretty walks around the village and in the afternoon I sat on a very convenient towpath bench next to our mooring and did some drop spindling.
And in the evenings we watched the glorious sunsets.
Not as I previously called it, the Keadby and Stainforth, apologies to any perfectionists reading this. It is the first/last section of the South Yorkshire Navigation.
We woke refreshed after our Keadby lock conquering experience. The sun was shining and we had a whole new region to explore. Unfortunately looking out of our portholes all we could see was this very dilapidated old building and my heart sank, I knew of the industrial decline but we had nearly 50miles to travel into the centre of Sheffield and I hadn’t expected the dereliction to start quite so soon.
Thankfully, I needn’t have worried, we were soon travelling along a straight wide canal in flat open countryside. No locks but plenty of swing bridges and lift bridges to negotiate. But the first was the sliding, retractable rail bridge, manned automatically by the operator in the signal box. My photo doesn’t do justice to the engineering as I had to watch the whole operation from behind locked gates. The track is diagonally across the canal so the bridge is winched sideways until it is clear of the channel.
This canal is deep and wide as it was built for heavy commercial traffic. Completed in 1802 it joined the River Trent to the River Don and the mining and industrial communities of South Yorkshire, although this section is still in Lincolnshire. The landscape is flat so whilst this section is lock free, it’s also idea for trains and a track runs along side for quite some distance.
The swing and lift bridges are all key operated now but this one at Wykewell, on the outskirts of Thorne, is faulty so you have to book CRT in advance to come and open it for you.
At Thorne we had the pleasure of meeting up with our friends Cherryl and Ian, the couple we met last year on our way to Lincoln. A coffee turned into a picnic lunch, then drinks and a take away in the evening. Lots of laughter and storytelling as we encouraged each other on with our cruising plans.
We only stayed one night in Thorne, in case we started to feel like a fish out of water.
Day two was leisurely and relaxed. Bramwith lock marks the end/beginning of this canal.
This is where the canal runs parallel with the river Don. The river is still tidal and prone to flooding hence it being hidden from our sight by high levees, the cows seem happy enough.